A beginners guide to Rewaxing a Barbour Jacket

For over a century, J. Barbour & Sons has stood as a beacon of British craftsmanship. Founded in 1894 in South Shields by John Barbour, the company began by outfitting sailors, fishermen, and dockers with weatherproof outerwear. What started as practical attire for working folk soon became a symbol of British country lifestyle, earning three Royal Warrants and adorning everyone from farmers to the Royal Family.

The secret to Barbour's legendary durability lies in its waxed cotton fabric, a time-tested material that, with proper care, can last for decades. The wax coating provides excellent weather protection while developing a unique patina that tells the story of each jacket's journey.

While melting the wax into the fabric, the jacket started to look as new, or perhaps even better than that.

Since I recently put myself to the the task of rewaxing a Barbour, I thought I’d quickly talk you though a shortlist of things one needs to consider, especially when new to the whole wax-jacket universe.

When it's time for Rewaxing a Barbour

Your Barbour jacket needs rewaxing when:

• The fabric appears lighter or drier than usual, as it is with leather shoes that have not seen shoe polish for a while. 

• Water no longer beads on the surface but simply soaks into the outer fabric. 

• The material feels less supple

• You notice dark spots where the wax has worn away

• The jacket begins to feel damp in light rain

Typically, this occurs every 12-18 months, though frequency depends on wear and exposure to the elements. I mean, for durability and the sake of the ritual of proper maintenance, I would suggest to just rewax it once a year. 

Step-by-Step Rewaxing Guide

What You'll Need

• Barbour Thornproof Dressing, or blend your own as I am trying to articulate in plenty of my articles. 

• A clean, soft cloth

• A heatgun (or hairdryer)

• Old newspapers or dust sheets

• Sponge or soft brush

• Warm, well-ventilated space

The Process

1. Preparation

• Clean your jacket gently with cold water and a soft brush

• Allow to dry naturally at room temperature

• Lay out newspapers to protect your work surface

• Ensure your jacket is at room temperature

2. Initial Assessment

• Check for any repairs needed, and have it fixed before you start rewaxing.

• Note areas of heavy wear

• Remove items from pockets

• Hang the jacket on a sturdy hanger

3. Applying the Wax

• Work in a warm room (around 20°C)

• Gently warm up the wax using the au-bain marie method

• Using circular motions, apply the wax evenly with your cloth

• Start from the shoulders and work down

• Pay special attention to seams, creases, and worn areas. That's where the moist comes in more easily.

• Don't forget cuffs and collar

• Less is more - thin layers work best

4. Heat Treatment

• Use your hairdryer or heatgun on medium heat

• Hold about 15cm from the fabric

• Move continuously to avoid overheating

• The wax will visibly melt and penetrate the fabric

• Continue until the entire jacket has been heated

5. Finishing Touches

• Wipe away any excess wax

• Pay special attention to seams and pockets

• Leave to dry naturally for 24 hours

• Hang in a warm, dry place away from direct heat

After you're done with all the above...

• Avoid wearing your freshly waxed jacket for at least 24 hours. The wax needs to properly settle.

• Don't store your jacket in plastic bags

• Keep away from radiators and direct sunlight

• Brush off dirt regularly rather than washing

• Never ever, ever, ever machine wash or dry clean

Common Mistakes you don't need to make anymore after reading this

• Using too much wax - this leads to a sticky finish

• Applying wax to a cold jacket - warmth helps absorption

• Rushing the process - proper rewaxing takes time

• Using non-Barbour products - these may damage the fabric

• Working in a cold room - the wax needs warmth to penetrate

A Final Note from yours Truly

Rewaxing your Barbour isn't just maintenance; it's part of the jacket's story. Each application adds character, enhancing the garment's unique patina. In fact, they grow more beautiful over the years.

With proper care, your Barbour jacket will continue to protect you from the elements while growing more distinguished with age, truly embodying the timeless quality of British craftsmanship. And on top of all those superlatives, I strongly believe we simply can’t buy new stuff all the time anymore.

We owe it to future generations to to take proper care of what we already have.

Darcy Downpour