D.I.Y. rewaxing a wax jacket; the different types of wax explained

I've noticed considerable confusion regarding the various types of wax one might want to consider when reproofing and rewaxing a wax jacket. Whilst I'm using Barbour as our primary example, these principles apply splendidly to all manner of traditional waxed cotton jackets. Let's shed a little light on the matter of which wax to use and why.

Upon lifting the flap of a pocket on your beloved Barbour Bedale or Ashby, you'll likely spot the term 'Sylkoil' - a designation that speaks about the initial treatment your jacket received before gracing the shop floor. 

Sylkoil represents the quintessential traditional finish for Barbour outerwear, distinguished as an "unshorn" wax. This finish is applied to the cotton fabric directly from the loom, whilst the material still maintains its delightful natural fluffiness. During this process, the cotton undergoes both dyeing and waxing. Ths Sylkoil-finish has several distinctive characteristics:

• A subtle, matte finish that beautifully showcases the fabric's natural character

• Enhanced visibility of the weave's texture

• Rich variations in colour and depth

• A tendency to become increasingly comfortable with wear

Is Barbour Wax Thornproof Dressing your only option?

Waxed cotton finishes, often referred to as "thornproof" in Barbour parlance, follow a markedly different application process. The cotton undergoes treatment via heated rollers, producing a calendered finish that effectively seals the weave.

A can of Thornproof Dressing

This results in a fascinating duality: one side maintains a matte appearance whilst the other develops a rather splendid glossy finish.

• Superior weather resistance compared to the standard from-factory Sylkoil finish

• Deeper, more uniform colours

• Enhanced durability

• A stiffer, more formal appearance with a notable shine

  
  

Reproofing Your Barbour

With the Thornproof Dressing Barbour sells at $25, proper maintenance remains paramount. The dressing gradually wears thin, necessitating annual reproofing to maintain the weatherproofing capabilities.

Many owners entrust their beloved jackets to Barbour's expert care - the company proudly refinishes approximately 40,000 jackets annually. Or you can of course let a lad such as myself take care of your wax jacket. However, for the more hands-on enthusiast, Barbour sells small cans of their proprietary Thornproof Wax for home application. But of course you're isn't bound to Barbour as an only option to get your paws on a proper wax dressing. You might want to have a look at:

• John Partridge Waxed Cotton Dressing is an excellent alternative at $26,91

• Cotton Dressing from Walker and Hawkes has been around forever and does a great job for only $19.95

DIY Reproofing; making your own wax

The Thornproof Wax proves suitable for both Thornproof and waxed cotton finishes. When applied to a Sylkoil jacket, it temporarily smooths the nap and imparts a subtle sheen that gracefully weathers away, restoring the jacket's distinguished appearance whilst renewing its protection against the elements. 

For the truly dedicated enthusiast, there exists a third option: crafting one's own wax blend for rewaxing a wax jacket. This approach offers unparalleled control over the finish's stiffness and durability. When blending custom wax, one can achieve a thicker, less oil-like consistency that provides enhanced protection against the elements. I do blend my own wax making it possible to adjust the type of finish based on the wish of the customer. If you’re curious on how to blend your own wax; I wrote a little something on the matter. 

Some carved-in-stone rules you should always stick to regarding the care for any wax jacket

• Never machine wash

• Avoid dry cleaning at all costs

• Clean solely with cold water and a gentle sponge (as warm water might damage the wax coating). 

• Always consult the care instructions typically found within the pocket